6.1. SR 02-01-1993 - Laserfiche WebLink

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( . 5. NUMBERAND DISTRIBUTION. Ascxpbined above, your dugout should be near an existing shallow marsh for brood-rearing purposes. If you have ad- equate space and funding, you can consider digging more than one dugout. In general, two closely-spaced small dugouts will receive more use than one larger dugour. If you construct more than one pond, space them about 100 to 300 feet apart. Ponds can be closer if tall vegetation screens the ponds from each other (breeding ducks are territorial and won't tolerate oth- ers of the same species if they can see them). 6. ISLANDS. Dugouts less than twO acres are too small to include an island. As an alternative you can use nest baskets, boxes or floating rafts for nesting. A floating log, anchored in place, provides an excellent site for waterfowl and turtle loafing. See our brochure entitled "Artificial Structures for Waterfowl." ( . 7. SPOIL. Excavating a pond means you end up with a lot of soil removed from the dugout; this is called "spoil." Spoil must be carefully dealt with to optimize waterfowl use. In peat soils and cattail-choked wet- lands, you should remove the spoil from the wetland if at all possible. Again, check with the apptopriate agencies (see list at end) to determine if you need a permit. In mineral soils, the top 6"-12" will probably be black topsoil, high in organic matter. This should be saved separately for later spreading over the excavated bot- tom. The underlying nonorganic soils (clays, sands, etc.) should be moved to an upland site and spread evenly. It is important that this material be removed from the wetland basin and not piled adjacent the dugout. The edge of the dugout should not have a discernible "rim"; that is, the slope should be continu- ous below and above the water surface, as showp in the cross-section in figure 2. Finally, all disturbed uplands and spread spoil should be seeded to native grasses for a minimum of 150 feet around the dugout. This will provide waterfowl cover, minimize weed growth, and prevent sedimentation within the basin. Providing 4 acres of upland nesting cover for each acre of wetland is best for duck produc- tion. Do not plant trees near your dugout; these serve as predator perches and dens, and will reduce water- fowl use. Use nest boxes to attract wood ducks. Remember to get any necessary permits before you starr digging! 8. FINAL TREATMENT. The clay and sand under- lying most mineral soils are very sterile and won't support plant growth. In order to establish a food chain in your dugout, you must provide :10 organic base. This can be accomplished by spreading 4" -6" of black topsoil over the eneire excavated area. This can be the topsoil you originally removed (and stockpiled) from the site when you starred digging. Another technique is to spread 2"-6" of clean upland hay over the excavated surface (wild hay can spread noxious weeds). Both can be used simultaneously. Once covered with water, either of these bases will quickly allow vegetation and insects to grow, providing the building blocks for a desirable marsh. Don't worry about planting aquatic planes in your basin - they will establish themselves naturally in time, given a suitable Site. I , 'I Feet , I. i [', ~2:~Q~:'~<(..j" . .,+'o<;:;;~(J.~Dp~'6?:o~~ 4 rOlYo..ooc>"~'c.<..;; ....'o.oOc,.,o.\:;oc::::. .. .o~. : Ilili&'I~lftq~~~~tllii~~rl.<>~".d\$k%I~,Y~jI~ilf!~1 I I I I I I ~ 0 10 20 30 40 50 Feet Figure 2. Cross-section of pond bottom showing smooth, shallow grade at waterline, and undulating bottom contours.